The 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a wine that turns everything up to 11. It was picked from September 15 at 29.4hl/ha with 13.6° alcohol, then matured for 17 months in new oak. There was some whole bunch here, although I do not know the exact percentage. The incredibly intense, powerful bouquet of red cherries, kirsch and cranberry is augmented by light floral scents, although there is more glycerin here than I recollect on previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied, muscular and well-balanced, offering firm, grippy tannins that lacquer the mouth. As I have observed before, with aeration this becomes more clenched and more like the 2010 in style, though I seek a little more detail on the finish, where the precocity of the growing season blurs the edges. Give it another three to five years. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London. Drink through 2040.