I’ll never forget a Sparkling Shiraz I found in my father’s cellar at Seppelt’s Barooga vineyard when I was a kid – I can taste it now. Many years later, when I worked at Seppelt’s Rutherglen, I met Colin Preece, the master responsible for the great old wines. Ever since, I’ve wanted to make a wine of my own that reflected his attitude and technique. This is it: Black Shiraz matured in seasoned oak, revitalised by bottle fermentation, left on lees before disgorgement and liqueuring, and then put straight back into the cellar. You’d be doing us both a favour if you left it there a bit longer so it can really show its best. But watch your kids.